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  • The mother of invention

    March 18th, 2023

    15 March Wednesday

    After a long day of composing musicals with elementary school students, and an intense workout at the gym, I was pooped. I got home, jumped in the shower, had a ZOOM with my bro and sis-in-law, and was so hungry afterwords, I could hardly walk. But walk I did. I went out, hangry and confused, not wanting anything in particular and not wanting to spend money for convenience. Frustrated, I thought surely I had something, something in the house that I could eat and enjoy, and couldn´t I power through my present delirium and take care of myself? Well, it turned out the answer was yes.

    I went home. The crumbs from a bag of tortilla chips? Check! A quarter cup of week old chili? Check! A savagely wilted and bruised butt end of iceberg lettuce? Check! An almost empty bag of cheddar cheese? Check! Can of black beans? Check! A can of black olives? Check! Extra-tangy sour cream from January I found at the back of the fridge? Check!! What do you get? An amazing taco salad.

    Let´s talk about expiration dates. Sometimes, they happen. Sometimes, you are promised something for a lifetime, only to watch it mold in days. Somethings astound me at how long they last. I´m not talking about leftovers, I´m talking about ingredients.

    Ok, BOOOOOOORIIIIIIIIIING!! Cut to a couple of days later. The corned beef has been on the stovetop for three and a half hours, the colcannon is resting comfortably, and the soda bread-

  • bust and beef

    March 13th, 2023

    13 March Monday

    Well, the Oscars did happen yesterday, and they didn´t fail to serve. I, on the other hand, failed to serve. The Oscar may be a statuette, but my dinner was a bust. Why? Well, I wrote about the way I normally do Oscars party menus, and there were not many references to food in the movies. Tar had cucumber salad, Everything etc. had of course, hot dogs. Then I saw Triangle of Sadness, and there is nothing appetizing about this flick, let me tell you. After I saw it, I decided not to make food for the party. Also, I had an organ recital to play, specifically accompanying silent movies. It was fun, took a little time.

    So, as a consolation prize, I share a sneak preview of my upcoming corned beef for St. Patty´s day.

    It´s brining beautifully, it has a great color on it. I flipped it over, re-wrapped it, and and it´s having its final rest over the next four days.

    I´m so happy, it´s like the Jamie Leigh Curtis of corned meat. OK, soda bread, potatoes, cabbage, you know the drill. More to come.

  • Remembering the Schmenge brothers

    March 2nd, 2023

    27 February Monday

    If you remember SCTV, the great tv show that introduced the world to Catherine O´Hara and Eugene Levy, you may remember the Leutonian brothers the Schmenges. This pair made programs about their native Leutonia and its many traditions. These include the men-only Christmas ritual of exchanging the socks off of their feet. Also, cabbage rolls and coffee, the traditional dinner. The cabbage rolls are in the oven now. Coffee would be OK, but Pilsner is better.

    An unfortunate shortcoming of technology- I can write about the food, I can photograph or even take video of the cooking, but I can´t transmit the taste, or more importantly, the scent of the food. The whole casserole, which is in a 9 by 13 glass dish, is covered in crushed tomatoes in sauce. The beauty thing- some of the sauce will slightly burn against the side of the dish, I can smell it now, and add a tremendous depth of flavor. Some of the bottom cabbage leaves will get a little crust on them too. I can´t wait to eat!

    Stuffed Cabbage and Pierogis, two well-known Eastern European foods, that evidence supports, came from the middle to far East and moved West. Stuffed vegetables feature in the cuisines of the Middle East, and of course, the Greeks have dolmas, which is what stuffed cabbage is, only with cabbage leaves instead of grape leaves. What an ingenious use of the humble cabbage! In my mother´s book, she mentions using fresh herbs, including mint. I used thyme, rosemary, and a little pinch of smoked paprika. Per suggestion, I added a couple of finely diced apples to the mix. The Italians too, stuff things, only with breadcrumbs, basil, and cheese. Stuffed vegetables and noodles become less common as we move West.

    Wait, now the cabbage, and added sauerkraut!! I smell it now. It is a bitterly cold rainy San Francisco night, and this is the antidote.

    Rolling out the dough, rolling out the dough. Pierogi time. Farmers cheese, mashed potato, chives, salt, pepper.

    You can see the pierogis there in the back. They were absolutely wonderful. Were, I mean are. I’m about to have some more now, the next night.

    And yes, they are much better the next day. OK, fantastic.

  • One potata, two tomata

    February 25th, 2023

    25 February Saturday

    Hot Cross Buns! Pictured above, the pre-washed buns. I like to lightly glaze them with powdered sugar and water before thickening it to make the crosses .

    They turned out. I am sad that after three grocery store visits, I could not find candied orange peel. I really should just make my own. In the meantime, raisins and currants will do. I toyed with the idea of adding candied ginger, which I do have, but it would have overwhelmed the mellow spices that are tingled by citrus peel.

    There they are, all finished. Oh yes. Oh yes. I just ate one. They are like wonderful spice doughnuts, taken to new heights. These are really yumbo jumbo. There are many people who don´t really care for raisins. I understand if these little dried-up shriveled rat turds appear on a kindergarten snack spread. But cooked in a thing? They change. They bloat with innocent joy.

    While these buns were a-bakin, I was a-boilin a whole mess of spices and salt and sugar in a pot with water, because brisket was on sale, inspiring me again to make corned beef for St. Patrick´s Day. Mustard seed, coriander seed, clove, cinnamon, allspice, bay leaf, salt sugar, soak it for weeks. Almost three weeks in this case.

    Wow, spring is really comin-up real quick. I saw fresh local asparagus at Bi-Rite, the local local market for local produce, produced locally. Locally sourced, to coin a phrase.

    I also got cabbage for cabbage rolls, Slovakian Farmers Cheese, which I found handily at Gus´s for the pierogies. The recipes for these are taken from a cookbook that my mother wrote, gathering family recipes, particularly those she ate at the family farm in Southern Ohio. A number of these recipes- stuffed cabbage, peppers, kielbasa, sauerkraut, appeared on a semi-regular basis in the dinner rotation when we were kids. I was always surprised when I lived in Atlanta and London that some people had never heard of these foods let alone eaten them. Sounds like everything is set for the next week of eating. It´s been fun to use a lot of hyphens too.

  • Keeping up with requests

    February 23rd, 2023

    23 February Thursday

    Cooking for occasions. It´s time, yes. This week, the cooking has been simple-another pot of chili, and a big bowl of coleslaw. Coleslaw, now there´s a thing. I don´t know anyone that doesn´t like coleslaw, but it is always a presumed side to American BBQ and etc. When was the last time you said to your loved ones ¨Let´s get some coleslaw tonight!!¨ or ¨I´m in the mood for coleslaw, who´s down?¨ Probably never. But when a mountain of slaw appears on the table, look out. Guests will crowd the buffet, and you are lucky to get out with your own life. I myself can enjoy a serving as a main course. It comes in many varieties, Southern, Asian, Russian, etc. all of which are delicious. I did the ole´Traditional one with cabbage, carrot, onion, mayo, sour cream, Dijon mustard, and apple cider vinegar.

    Next thing- a request for homemade cabbage rolls and pierogis. That will be this weekend, in addition to the now multiple requests for Hot Cross Buns. That´s right, it´s also Hot Cross Bun time, Lent. Hot Cross Buns are one of the recipes I´ve developed myself over the years. My special buns are filled with raisins, currants, candied orange peel, clove, and nutmeg. I ¨wash¨ them with simple syrup and make the crosses with Royal Icing. Also, always make them with bread flour for a chewier bun. These good. Real good.

    Finally, Oscar season. I am bringing back my little party, making dishes that are featured/eaten/discussed in the nominated movies. The person(s) who pair the dish(es) with the movie(s) win(s). What do you win(s)? Nothing. Just be happy and proud of yourself for being so attentive and having a strong memory for small details. Wouldn´t that be wonderful?

    OK, stay tuned, there is some good stuff a´comin.

  • More French food

    February 14th, 2023

    14 February Tuesday

    Having made the beautiful potage last night, I woke this morning craving roast chicken. I have a well-salted bird resting on the countertop right now, and a Provencal Butternut Squash Gratin and a wonderful Spinach gratin. Now, this spinach is one of the best things this side of heaven. The spinach has only salt, pepper, a little flour, and olive oil.

    Cut to three hours later. The chicken is in the oven, the spinach next to it. The squash is in the other oven, slowly roasting away. These last two recipes come from Richard Olney’s Simple French Food, one of the classic cookbooks of all time. His descriptions and daring are really something else. According to the recipe, the butternut squash should be almost black when pulled from the oven. These sides are really out of this world. I will make a light gravy for the chicken, which is flavored liberally with lemon, garlic, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, majoram, and fennel. I hear it sizzling and smell that holy congress. The frigid wind is whipping down the street but inside it is warm and smells beautiful.

    Now, it is three hours later. I forgot to take a picture before the eating, but I took one after, with my sated dinner guest.

    I don’t recall that I’ve written about this before, but my go-to roast chicken recipe is from Alice Waters. Art of Simple Food Vol.1 Perfection, every time. OK, more to come.

  • Let the food make the choice

    February 14th, 2023

    14 February Tuesday

    I know many people have a hard time figuring out what to cook for dinner each night. I advocate planning beforehand, but more importantly, not overthinking the subject. The irony of overthinking things is the more we overthink, the less information we believe to be in the brain. If I am trying to think really hard about what I want for dinner, I will forget about what ingredients I have, how much time it will take, and focus on what I am trying to want. Take, for instance, last night. I was restless, confused, and didn’t know what I was “in the mood for”. I scoured books and looked online, and thought yes! yes!, only a few minutes later to be discouraged and contrary. It’s the trouble with being overly inspired- too many things to get excited about. I did the only thing I could in such circumstances. I took a walk.

    I went to Duc Loi, the local grocery store to buy a roll of paper towels. I was strolling down the produce aisle and saw some big fat leeks and thunderbolt! Thunderbolt thunderbolt! I suddenly recall a bag of potatoes sitting around doing nothing. I rushed home.

    Within the hour I was enjoying a hot bowl of Leek and Potato soup. This soup is the first recipe in Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking because she believed it exemplified the essence of French Cooking. It is incredibly simple with very few ingredients, and the result is so amazing, so unexpectedly complex you’d never think it had such humble beginnings. Leeks, potatoes, butter, water, salt, pepper. That’s it. Cook it all in a pot till it’s done, then put it through a food mill. If your food mill didn’t survive the holidays, as mine didn’t, then use an immersion blender. No regular blender and no food processor, they make the potatoes gluey and gross.

    Smooth, creamy, earthy, and very slightly smoky. Cheap. Delicious. It was dinner last night. I’ve said before and will surely say again, we put too much emphasis on mood for food choices. I wasn’t in the mood for Potato Leek Soup last night, and it didn’t matter. I let the food make the choice for me. Great idea. Try it.

  • February 13th, 2023

    6 February Monday

    Sometimes the simplest foods can be the most annoying. Take for instance, pancakes. What the hell, I mean really. Keeping the pan at the right temp whilst trying to cook pancakes and keep them warm while everyone is impatiently waiting at the table. It frustrates me when they burn on the outside, stay raw on the inside, so then you drop the heat, then they sit there forever, not cooking. It is important that you keep the pancakes smallish, because they will raise up (especially if there is 4 tsps. of baking powder in the batter). My pancakes molted, and one of them began crawling across the griddle pan to the South, toward Daly City. They tasted ok, but oh my, the carafe of freshly squeezed Navel and blood orange juice. Just wonderful.

    Having enjoyed such wonderful comfort foods, laden with meat and cheese, I am going to go vegetarian this week. Last night at a Turkish restaurant, I had an amazing red lentil soup that had a flavor of smoked paprika and cinnamon. I think there was parsley and mint in it as well.

    9 February Thursday

    I had a bit of a cold earlier this week and so, needed rest and recoup. I’m now back on my feet in time for beautiful weather, so beautiful it is impossible to stay indoors.

    The air smells like spring. It’s on its way for sure.

    13 February 2023

    If you’ve made it this far, you know I haven’t had a lot cooking lately. Early last week, I got down on my hands and knees and scrubbed the kitchen floor, deep cleaned the sink and the oven. It was (and still is) a moving sight to the see the afternoon sun hit the completely clean floor. I made simple things, not worth the writing about, and kept the kitchen clean. But now, well, the feeling has worn off, and I am restless to get creative. I am taking a different approach.

  • letting a mind wander

    January 31st, 2023

    31 January Tuesday

    So, the first month of the year has come to an end. What have I learned? First, I could be a little more ambitious. I achieved half my of year´s cooking goals in the first month. Second, all those recipes on the ¨to cook¨list? Cook them, you´re not getting younger. I´m so happy I made that Chicken Spaghetti and made it exactly to the word of the recipe. OK, those are probably the things, aside from the good food I´ve made and eaten, about which I´ve already been written.

    Now the leftovers are gone, the fridge is fairly empty, and whatever. I sat for a moment in my living room, looking at my cookbook bookcase, and let my mind wander. What is the next thing to get excited about? I was drawn to a book, long on my shelf called The Mushroom Feast by Jane Grigson. Jane has featured prominently of late, as she wrote the recipes that were the basis for or taken by word for our Shepherd´s Pie, the Three Kings Salad, and the Dark Chocolate Orange Marmalade cake. A good Christmas.

    This book explains the varied types of mushrooms available for food, and the best ways to use them. It is a bitterly cold night here in Northern California, and in this weather I crave ramen noodles. I went to my local joint, which is excellent, and ordered the vegetarian mushroom ramen and read this book. The market up the street is known all over the city for its variety of fresh mushrooms, from porcinis to oysters to trumpets, and those cute little ones that grow by the dozens from a single stem.

    As a kid, I learned to enjoy mushrooms in two typical ways- 1. Deep fried, the hot mushroom juice bursting in your mouth after the crispy crust. 2. Stuffed- with sausage, breadcrumbs, cheese, herbs. Those were the gateway mushrooms. Then, pizza topping, pasta sauce, omelettes, stir-fries, risottos, you name it. I wonder how often I would use Mushroom ketchup if I made it? Or mushroom powder, which sounds really interesting, in a delicious way? What about a braised chicken with walnuts, bacon, mushrooms, brandy? Mushroom fritters with tomato sauce? Mushroom and grape sauce? There are a variety of fish, shellfish, and mushroom dishes.

    Will I make any of these things? We shall see.

  • Epilogue- on Casseroles

    January 30th, 2023

    30 January Monday

    Casseroles are like classical music. There are millions of recordings of well-known pieces and most of them are half-baked, poorly prepared, and carelessly executed. There is at least one bad casserole for every bad recording of the Beethoven 5th. Then there is Beethoven fifth, like a tuna noodle casserole, every choice, every detail is carefully considered, every ingredient judiciously incorporated. Every rest, fermata, tenuto, rubato, and stringendo like the perfectly boiled noodle, the perfectly blanched vegetable, the perfect dice. Knowing when to stop, knowing when to push forward. I enjoyed lately the casserole that debuted in my kitchen last night. So full, rich, and more than it was yesterday. I am taking more now to friend´s for dinner.

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