BingoFest

  • Goodnight, moon

    March 30th, 2024

    29 March Friday

    A first request! The question is this: Why are hot cross buns, a sweet treat served on a day and in a season wherein sweet treats are renounced, served? Pictured above is one of the last hot cross buns of the season; friends have begun to pat their tummies and say no thank you. Here is an answer:

    Hot Cross Buns were originally baked by a monk somewhere (St. Alban’s) and given to the poor on Good Friday. Then, as now, these buns are somewhat expensive to make, with milk, eggs, butter, spices, and dried fruit. It was an act of charity from those who had much to those who had little. Sweets were not made with sugar back then (1300’s) so many things were sweetened with only raisins and honey. Tooth rotting, Diabetes inducing, hyper-active, manic, sugar foods were not as common back in those primitive days, apparently.

    Next, the Lenten fast was traditionally a communal one, and one that involved meat. People gave up meat together, as prescribed by Mother Church. Individually customized fasts were not common or even expected. It turns out, people that already have too much are ok with giving things up for a few weeks. Whereas, if you are involuntarily giving things up all the time as a way of life, doing it intentionally seems unnecessary, even ill-advised. The idea of people giving up alcohol and/or sweets as personal sacrifices for Lent is a very modern one, and non-hot cross bun inclusive.

    After the big service, many broke their Good Friday fast with a hot cross bun, and I, having done that today, could not recommend it more. More sweet, more savory, more wholesome than any one before it. By the way, buns were also served to the ill and infirmed as they were believed to have medicinal properties.

    Some people believe that if you bake the buns on Good Friday and hang one in the hallway by a thread, nothing bad will ever happen. I haven’t tried it because I think it’s a bunch of bullshit.

    Next. Hit’em up a tune they call turkey in the fridge. I am getting excited for the big day, which in this case, is Wednesday. Not enough parties happen on Wednesday in my opinion. Monday and Tuesday, sure, we need to rest and recoup, but by Wednesday one’s weekend has begun. This is going to be a party if it all works out. A real big step up for me, cooking wise speaking.

    I’ve been watching tutorials, reading, practicing on imaginary birds. It’s like performing surgery on a patient that has already thankfully died. It is the project. It is the cooking. I will rejoice. I will breathe deeply as my fingers work their way through raw meat, tendons, skin, and bones in this dissection exercise reminiscent of high school biology class. I think that this will all happen on Tuesday, so that the day of can just be the fun part of cooking and setting the table. Yes, I am going to set the table for the first time in 2024. I don’t mean my little kitchen table, I mean the grand dining room table. The one I got for thirty-nine dollars at the thrift store and wheeled down Mission Street on a dollie. As my friend and I were crossing the street, someone yelled my name from a car window. I turned to wave at them, and the table fell off the dollie just as the light was changing. Well, you can imagine what ensued! Horns honking, people screaming colorful phrases and suggestions, we trying to upright the table, it was great. Just another day on Mission Street. So yeah, that table.

    It turns out, serving turkey on Easter is not that uncommon. It appears to be a thing in Canada. And yes, there will be cranberry sauce!! And yes, there will be gravy, and instead of mashed potatoes, colcannon. OK, I’m getting ahead of myself, and there appears to be another me ahead of him, so I better slow down a second. More to come.

  • Worthy

    March 26th, 2024

    25 March Monday

    A double rainbow. The most brilliant I’ve ever seen. Right from my back porch. Many saw but few believed. I almost think there was a third rainbow below the strong middle one. Is there something springing in the heart? Something that says despite all other reasons, everything is going to be OK? Or even wonderful? Isn’t everything still wonderful after all?

    The beautiful Irish Stew. Oh, the glories of the New Year! Spring here, slowly, day by day. A day of warm, a day of cold, a dry day, a wet one. You know, it’s all like that. Northern California looks like Wales this time of year; deep green verdant hillsides fresh for grazing. How amazing.

    Sunday is Easter Day, and I am not hosting. I like to make a party during Easter week, maybe Wednesday, maybe Friday, who knows? I do think I’m going to cook something unusual for my gathering- turkey. I bought one at the end of the holidays and put it in the freezer. Discount meat!! Well, now I’m gonna pull that baby right of its freezer tomb and bring it back to life just in time to cook and eat it! Worthy is the turkey. I will do it the same way as on Thanksgiving but maybe go one step further. I am going to remove all the bones and do a turkey roulade. oh yes! I can’t wait. Wait, wait, wait, is it a roulade, a galantine, rolled turkey? (aren’t roulade and rolled the same?) Yes, they are basically. One has a French name.

    I am definitely not doing a galantine. I have to put all sorts of veal and chestnuts and cognac and other tidbits I’d have to go all over earth to assemble. And the cost. No, not this time. I will defrost my bird, carefully remove its big bones, and roll it up with something reasonable, like nuts and spinach. Everyone loves nuts and spinach. Speaking of people loving things, I’ve made a number of delightful dishes for myself and friends. I made a good baked Ziti with pesto and cauliflower. A nice salad with arugula, raisins, pumpkin seeds, ya know. My local grocery has begun carrying Banh Mi, which could be dangerous. For those of you that don’t know or only half know, Banh Mi is a Vietnamese baguette, except it’s lighter and airier and delicious (more delicious). It is perfect for sandwiches of all kinds and sorts and stripes, not the least being a perfect vehicle for the breakfast sandwich.

    Why? Regular baguettes, like bagels, are terrible mouth delivery systems for egg sandwiches. The soft, fluffy eggs are squeezed out of end of the bread when the cuspids tear through the tough chewy crust. It’s like when we all go to France and are walking around and the only thing to get is a tuna salad baguette or a baguette Capresi. You go to eat the damn thing, and you end up with a lump of tuna salad on your lap, a large leaf of Bibb lettuce hanging out of your mouth, and your jaw getting the workout of a lifetime. Wait, did that happen in France? Maybe, maybe not. But it was definitely outside, and there was a sandwich paper on my lap, and it was blowing away in a chilly sea wind. So, I must have been near the sea. This has happened to me many times throughout my life. Eating things off your lap outdoors is not a great experience come to think of it. And the pigeons!

    Many think Banh Mi is the name of the sandwich, but it is the name of the roll, so you can put anything inside it, and tell people you ate Banh Mi for lunch. Try it soon and let me know the reaction you get from friends! My Banh Mi was a breakfast one. Scrambled eggs, Gorgonzola, Ham, arugula. Wonderful. I prefer these sandwiches without any kind of sauce on them, be it ketchup or a spicy mayonnaise, or aioli or whatever. Too much gloop and flavor confusion. I hate flavor confusion. I wrapped the whole thing in foil (important!) and brought it all together in the toaster oven. Hip hip hooray. OK, enough, more to come. I think there may be another batch of Hot Cross Buns in the near future, and probably more candied citrus peel before the season is over. Citrus still local, still cheap(er).

    Yes, friends, we are all worthy to be here, and you can eat whatever you want whenever you want unless you have terrible health problems, then maybe don’t. Or do! We only live once that any of us can remember, and if we don’t eat the turkey now, we may not be able to later especially if you’ve left your teeth in a baguette sandwich. Don’t kill yourself trying to take care of yourself when you could live, really live, not taking care of yourself. Anyway. Nap time?

  • Signs of life

    March 18th, 2024

    18 March Monday

    One of the most looked forward to of foodstuffs, Irish Soda Bread. If ever I were to teach baking, I would begin with Irish Soda Bread. It may be the single easiest recipe in the world. And the effect it has on people! It is thick, dense, sturdy, slightly tangy, craggy, chewy. It is amazing dipped in the drippings, makes great toast, amazing grilled sandwiches. Every time I make and eat it, I wonder why I don’t make it more frequently. Then I forget about it till next year.

    The soda bread made a wonderful bed fellow of Irish Stew; a warm duvet sopping up the au jus of melted lamb shoulder, potatoes, carrots, onions, and thyme. A little dinner conversation revealed that I’d used a recipe which had the ingredients stacked in a specific order, the liquid added without disturbing the order of the contents. It is never stirred, or indeed disturbed in anyway. So, is it a stew or a braise? I think technically a braise. The liquid added (water!) didn’t reach an inch of the way up the pan. It was the low, slow cooking, the meat giving its essence, the vegetables releasing their water. Heavenly. It braised on Saturday night, I left it in the turned off oven overnight, and when I got home from work on Sunday, turned the oven back on for another hour until it was piping, gently bubbly hot. Supremo.

    Both of these foods seem in every way to be authentic. The stew tastes only of its components, there are no flavor surprises. We taste the lamb, and each vegetable holds on to its own flavor. Which is surprising. Things that are so simple, guests nod and their eyebrows go up (both of them, at the same time) when you tell them what isn’t in it.

    Another batch of hot cross buns, with raisins, currants, homemade candied citrus peel, allspice, cinnamon, glazed with well, glaze. You can clearly see I am not so into the cross. It’s actually a nice looking design-a pastry intended to remind one of public execution. Kinda fun. At the same time, it is exactly the correct amount of icing these buns need. Thank you, Jesus.

    Finally, on my morning walk, I beheld them. Local, fresh from the farm, standing tall and proud-the might Californian Asparagus. The asparagi of other places are thin and tender, but these west coast babies are the Sequoias of the vegetable world. That means spring onions, green garlic, salmon, chicken, lamb, and other springy things are springing into spring. Everywhere I look, signs of life.

  • The little fests of mid-winter

    March 11th, 2024

    11 March 2024

    They are milestones, little ones, between Christmas and Easter. There are a number of them. Two of them are national days MLK, and President’s Day. Two of them are saint’s days that have become part of our secular culture, Valentine’s Day and St. Patty’s. Two of them are strictly cultural-The Super Bowl and the Oscars. It can be hard to know which ones really deserve your attention. The Super Bowl has a long had a reputation for being a big food day. I once read a “study” that the Super Bowl is the 2nd most food planned day of the year after Thanksgiving. Whether that is true or not, the Super Bowl is known for foods like buffalo wings, nachos, and pizza, so no need for the good silver.

    I’ve never been able to bring myself to cook a large quantity of chicken wings, I get so worried wondering what happened to the rest of the little guy. Wing eating sessions are one of the only opportunities you get to see the real carnivore in so many of us homo sapiens. Wrists and sleeves covered in the blue cheese and flaming orange hot sauce while otherwise decorous friends nearly choke on grisly skin and exposed knob knuckles of bone. I must confess, I do love them. Then nibble a celery stick.

    I usually love to do corned beef for St. Patrick’s Day, but this is not to be. The reason is simple-my fridge was full to bursting with food, there was no room for a big piece of brisket. Nevermind. Let it be. What has been done, has been done. What has not been done, has not been done. Of course, I will make soda bread, and have a full head of cabbage somewhere in there too.

    Call me what you will, but if you meatheads can go nuts for football, I can go nuts for the Oscars, and nuts I must go. I have always loved the awards and watched them since I was old enough to operate a remote control. Many people say that they represent the worst our country has to offer. Beautiful entitled rich people congratulate themselves on their history-changing performances in an orgy of glamor, waste, and opulence, all the while looking down and finger-wagging at the unwashed masses who are warming their hands around the barrel fire. In fact, it should be celebrated for just this reason. It is the most over-the-top, in-your-face, no-holds-barred, winner-take-all, we’re-number-one evening. It couldn’t be more American if it featured a car crash.

    This year, my Oscars offering was as humble as the ceremony itself. An evening of level-headed and eclectic choices for awards. Speeches brief and uncontroversial. Inoffensive dad jokes. No one was attacked or brutalized, it was kind a boring. I made one of my favorite party dishes-an old Julia Child warhorse she called Granny’s Tatoes for a Crowd, which makes it a pan in the ass to find in the index as it is not listed under Potatoes, tatoes, or Grandma, you have to get her just right. Thumbs down, Julia. What ever happened to Pommes Gratin au Grand Mere or something fincy fancy like that? It’s all good, I didn’t have to look for the recipe, it’s in my heart, I think literally. Anyway, it clogs your arteries with a rich bechamel sauce enriched with Dijon and garlic, giving it a zip and a zing. Covered in feather-light minced ham, and you got yourself a dinner. Asparagus, and rolls and this-

    Now don’t worry, this was the pre-cleaned up version, I dusted away some of the crumble graham cracker crust around this creamy and splendid dark chocolate cheesecake. It was so lovely and delicious, my friends congratulated me with this magnificent centerpiece, salvaged as it was from the indifference of the city’s streets:

    Hmmm, it says so much.

    But, what?

  • The past makes the present

    February 5th, 2024

    5 February Monday

       In these lean days of rainy mid-winter, I open the freezer. What treasure from the past will become my dinner tonight? What a great thing, what an act of love that past me has bestowed on present me! First, a container of split-pea soup with thick red shreds of ham that I made probably in July when it’s really cold here. Then, minestrone from the summer with seasonal veggies and the wonderful chicken stock. When reheated, they are as fresh and scrumptious as they day they were made. Next, a pantry raid.

       OK, pantry raided. The above paragraph was written weeks ago, in the before time. See, since I’ve been back from my NYC trip, life has been lifeing, sometimes against my plans. The past makes the present indeed. In the first weeks of 2024, several teacher, mentor, and inspiration figures in my life died. They were long-lived, had done their work, carried their bales, and earned their rest. It is the good and natural movement. When someone from the past that I have not talked to for many years dies, I suddenly find myself recalling memories I hadn’t remembered having. It’s like the freezer of my mind. I open it up, and there they are, the encouraging words from long ago, ready to be thawed out at just the moment I need them, ready to be comforted and fed. It is sad and wonderful and all the things that are what life are. Who would you be without your people that made you who you are? Who would you be? You and I are the collection of the little bits of them that stuck to us, to our personalities and made us a little more ourselves. Like sesame seeds stick to bagels.

       

    From the pantry-salt, yeast, flour, sesame seeds. Then

    In addition to the death going around, atmospheric rivers. The atmospheric river Styx, if you will. Rain, rain, pouring down. What then to do but bake? Or, in the case of bagels, boiled then baked. Certainly wonderful, a great texture. Dense and chewy inside, light and crisp on the outside. And so easy, too easy. I would dare say the best bagel I’ve had on the West Coast. When it wasn’t raining, it was this:

    Golden Gate Park on a late Monday morning, mid-winter. Between deluge and torrent.

      Life is good, and I am told, short, though my life so far has been well paced if I say so. Keep a’cooking, keep a’goin, and thanks thanks thanks to the good ole world for the funny people, and don’t forget to tell their jokes.

  • Everything is food

    January 9th, 2024

    9 January 2024 Tuesday

    And like that, the holidays commence, reign, and end. I put the decorations away today, having gotten back from my whirlwind tour of the Northeast, specifically Cleveland, Akron, and New York City. It was a wonderful time. And food.

     Most of the cooking was done for me in Ohio, a real treat of ham, salmon, roast pork, sauerkraut (for New Years) and a great upside chocolate orange cake for my birthday.

    Here’s a photo of Brandywine Falls. A well-earned picture considering I slipped in the mud right on my butt about seven times before I took it.

    A time to slow down, a time to be at peace. Everything, in fact, felt peaceful this trip, including NYC, even Times Square seemed to be moving slowly, hoping that Christmas will never end. Indeed, when I left the city on the morning of 8 January, the city was still fully decked out in boughs of holly and etc.

    While in New York, I stayed with a dear friend and her family in Brooklyn. She hosts a cookbook club that meets once a month, and for January I was invited to cook a dish or two from one of the nominated cookbooks. The featured book this month was Craig Claiborne’s Herb and Spice Cookbook from 1963. The book is divided by the featured herb and/or spice, and by some strange coincidence, some divine providence, a number of us were drawn to the fennel chapter.

      Perhaps, after all that Christmas feasting and cookies and candies, we were craving a palate cleanse, something earthy and sweet, yet fresh and digestive. Fennel it is.

     Remember Popeye the Movie? There was a song, Everything is food. It has a weird lyric that I can’t exactly remember, but I sing it every time I make a recipe like Claiborne’s Fennel Flavored Spaghetti Sauce. Yes, there was a lot of fennel in it and everyone tasted it, but the chief ingredient was meat. Meat meat meat meat meat meat. I felt like my skin smelled of cooked meat afterwords. It still might.

    First, none of the above listed meats was used in my Fennel sauce. But it did have lots of meat in it. My friend and I went to the meat district of her neighborhood and stood on line (New York!!) for forty five minutes in order to purchase the most beautiful ground lamb, ground pork, ground beef, sweet Italian sausages, hot Italian sausages I’ve ever seen.

      These recipes from the early 1960s show America at its most devil-may-care when it comes to food and ingredients. This dish, supposedly Fennel forward is most note worthy because of its flagrant, wanton use of dead animals. Lots of animal meat. It was heavenly, especially I imagine for the dead livestock. Everything is meat, meat, meat. Everything is food and chow. Everything is food. We enjoyed seconds for breakfast the next day.

    If music be the food of love, play on. I went to New York to see a couple of shows, Here We Are and Merrily We Roll Along, both with music and lyrics by Stephen Sondheim. I wouldn’t mention this in my food and cooking writing, expect to say this was a cathartic experience in my life. Like the greatest meal I’ve ever had, but I had it with my ears and eyes. Thank you, Sondheim for giving us more to see.

     BTW, I am moving away from photographing the food itself in favor of using photos of the environment I was in that inspired the food. Pictures of food are horrible, and I hate them. End of sermon.

  • Baskets of biscuits for Barney and Boo

    November 29th, 2023

    29 November Wednesday

    I’ve often thought that if I ever became a film or tv director or playwright or novelist or something that requires you to create titles to things, I would try to come up with titles that may be stories in themselves but have nothing whatsoever to do with the story behind it. Now, with novels, you sort of expect to the title to not really tell you anything about the story, that’s part of what intrigues us. For instance, Gone with the Wind really has little to do with weather, and The Sun also Rises is not about advances in astronomy. But with movies you kinda expect a film called Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure wouldn’t be a documentary meditation on old-world beekeeping nuns in Minnesota. I’ll start with this blog post. It’s not about biscuits, and who Barney and Boo may be is anyone’s guess. But I bet it piqued your interest. What is this post about?

    Christmas baking. It’s that time again. I will confess something to you: Baking Christmas cookies is not a thing I like to do by myself. You need kids to put sprinkles on things, spill milk on things, flour flying through the air, the hot oven taking tray after tray, dad eating them with abandon still steaming hot, the sweet, avuncular croon of Burl Ives crackling forth from the ole’ Victrola. Too sentimental!!

    In my sunny San Francisco bachelor pad, I will explore the cold, stony North in my seasonal offerings. I am going to work with sweet yeast doughs in fruit dribbling braids, brushed with egg wash and baked to a shiny brown. I will make the complex design for Swedish Saffron Buns for St. Lucy’s Day. This is a curious Yuletide celebration in Sweden, when young girls serve things to people while also doubling as human candle stands. I don’t mean to say curious, but I do think young people would feel very different about Christmas here in the US if they were forced to have their heads weighed down with flaming wreaths, hot wax dripping onto their eyelids, carrying heavy trays of dainty sweets, eaten by the elders right in front of them. Good thing their eyes are singed shut!

    Yes, I did this.

  • Remains of the Day

    November 27th, 2023

    27 November Monday

    There it is. The scene from a few days ago. The dinner was a success but we knew that it would be.

    That Julia Child. I cursed her name a few times while prepping this poor animal, but in the end, I and the art of fine cooking prevailed, and we all agreed that this is the best way to prepare turkey legs. Remove the thigh bone, roll up the meat, wrap the skin around the exposed meat, then truss it all up, and bang you got yourself the miracle pictured above. I should mention that before suture took place I seasoned the now boneless meat with salt, pepper, and a few fresh sage leaves. It was absolutely wonderful. This is not just meat for Thanksgiving, it is a special occasion of all sorts sort of thing. I may make it again for my birthday or something fine like that.

    Thar she blows, a roasted pumpkin soup in the pumpkin. It was OK, though didn’t hold a candle to Julia’s bird. Here is one thing: because the turkey has been cut up, and partially boned it takes a lot less time to cook and consequently finished before the soup even went in. We had one little taste of turkey, and it was over. We wanted the potatoes, the green bean casserole, the cranberries, the everything else. The gravy. Large boats full of it.

    A welcome and refreshing change from pumpkin pie, though we all love that too, don’t we? A wonderful, light vanilla custard topped with pureed raspberries and cranberries. Tangy and only lightly sweet. Not cloying or heavy at all. Just perfect.

    That’s it, really. Pretty standard stuff, all well done. I had a weekend staying with friends, eating more turkey, telling stories, and laughing my ass off.

    The view from my guest bedroom window. I tend to sleep in when I’m at other peoples houses. I have no chores to tend to so have no incentive to get up early. That’s it. I’m grateful for so much in life. We went to a plant shop in Berkeley and among the little buds, this:

    A beautiful fall day in California, no doubt about it. Finally, the weekend winds down. A much needed rest. My dreams will guide my next steps. A tree? Decoration? Party? Cookies? What?

  • Turkey Lurkey time

    November 27th, 2023

    21 November Tuesday

    Wow, I’m really hungry. What do I want to eat? The horrible days before Thanksgiving. A turkey that’s taking up so much space in the fridge there is room for little else. You may have seen that brief post with the pumpkin cheesecake, which is still good and waning in the fridge. This stuff has got to go if I’m gonna get a move on with that Thanksgiving dinner. No room in the freezer, no room in the fridge. That’s a problem.

    See, before ya have fun and get to cookin all them yummy foods, you need to clean and clear out, and get everything ready, and go get the food. It’s the crappy part. NO, I will be of good cheer.

    But here’s the exciting part. A kitchen full of treasures. I’ve decided to do a few different things this year. We’re gonna start with pumpkin. Pumpkin soup, served in the pumpkin. I have a rich and wonderful chicken/vegetable broth that will go beautifully in the pumpkin, a nice, light starter. Then, for dessert, I am going to do a Cranberry and Raspberry tart. To get our pumpkin spice fix, sweet potato casserole. Then the usual, turkeystuffinggravymashedpotatoescranberrysauce. It really is just one dish.

  • Golden things

    November 21st, 2023

    12 November Sunday

    Above, an interesting and unusual pie, a big surprise frankly. That is Pumpkin Cheesecake Pie, a recipe from Erin McDowell, queen of pastry. A cookie crust holds the cream cheese custard extended with pumpkin puree. There is no spice of any kind. It is a cheesecake that tastes like pumpkin and it is really quite very good.

    Now my thoughts turn to Thanksgiving.

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