12 September Monday

The first question I have ever been asked. Why cubed apples instead of sliced in an apple pie? I have done both, and what are the differences? Apple pies, apple pies, apple pies. Some have crumble topping, some are single crust, some are double crust with all manner of decoration. The shape of the apple pieces, however, seems to be crucial. It´s interesting isn´t it, all the manners of apple pie toppings, but not a lot about the bottom crust. It should be an all butter and flour crust, easy and easy.

The best pie crust I ever made with my own two hands is the cream cheese crust devised by Rose Levy Beranbaum. Why not use it all the time? Because I have another favorite, from the Book on Pie by Erin Jeanne McDowell. It´s the rough puff which requires a few turns and roll outs before baking, giving it layers like puff pastry. It´s good, nay, important to have an all butter pie crust in your repertoire. But we´re here to talk about the apples.

Granny smith? Honey Crisp? Golden Delicious? This is another thing that people can get really weird about, I mean, honestly. Some people like the Granny Smiths the best because they are not sweet, and the sweetness can be adjusted with sugar. I don´t always like them because they get samey, and sometimes it´s not as applee a flavor as you like. I like to use a combination of varieties-a few grannies, a little jazz, maybe even a Fuji or two. But now here´s where things get, well, they get a little funky.

The first time I made McDowell´s apple pie, I did the first one in her book (with the brilliant addition of apple cider). It was during the pandemic and the height of listlessness. There were too many apples, the crust came out beautifully cooked, but the apples were underdone. The friend with whom I shared my pastry noted that the apples had been sliced and not cut into chunks as he was accustomed to. Wait a minute, I thought, I´ve baked lots of apple pies and have never once considered how the shape of the apple pieces might affect not only the cooking time, but the texture of the end result.

Sure enough, the next recipe in Book on Pie is for her personal favorite apple pie, which among a few other small differences…………requires the fruit to be cut in large dice!! OK, so I made the second recipe several months ago, and voila, a more cooked, soft but still holds its shape apple piece. I must remember this. A pie is still a pie as time goes by.

One more element- I do find that the apple type can affect the baking time, which can be tricky if the crust is too baked. The granny smiths always keep their shape better, but can be too chiffy in texture. The pie I made yesterday was a combo of grannies and honey crisp. I cut the grannies into a small dice and the honey crisps into larger dice. They came out the same doneness. It was fun. Mix it up.

I served the pie yesterday to a second guest. When we were done he said ¨That´s funny, I´ve never had a pie with the apples cut into chunks like that, I always thought it was slices.¨